Cider Makers Debate Pasteurization
July 1, 2007 There continues to be a debate in the cider production industry over whether pasteurization should be mandatory or voluntary for producers. To address the concerns of growers on both sides of this issue, we asked two apple growers to provide their thoughts on cider pasteurization. In addition, Randy Worobo and Olga Padilla-Zakour of the Department of Food Science and Technology at Cornell University offer their input on the differences between treated and untreated cider.
Can’t Afford Another Scare
“For the past 40 years, I have grown, packed, stored, and marketed tree fruit, primarily apples, for many growers here in south-central Pennsylvania. I currently serve as Chair of the Pennsylvania Apple Marketing Program. Having recently closed our packing operation, my current focus is the implementation of Good Agricultural Practices as defined by the USDA audit for several entities here. My current emphasis is to address food safety concerns as they may apply to our industry. I am totally 100% supportive of mandatory cider pasteurization. Any food safety issues today are rapidly identified and get broad-based media attention. The cider industry cannot afford a safety issue, as it kills business for all associated. As cider represents a value-added product, the returns to growers are much better than those for traditional processed juice.
When the last cider problem occurred, local producers who I thought would never pasteurize suddenly saw the advantage of reducing their liability by adopting the process. Of course, the fact that their retailer customers required it sped up the process. Food safety problems that have been identified deserve our full attention, and to the degree that we can make our food supply safer, the solutions need to be implemented.
Lest we forget the lessons learned during the Alar crisis, and with more recent problems in spinach, public perception of a produce item can be damaging beyond belief. In the instance of Alar, advocacy groups achieved their goal of pressuring government to act without scientific basis. The negative effects on the marketing of fresh apples and apple products were apparent for many years. So if there is a known possibility of a food safety issue, such as unpasteurized cider, then it is imperative that the industry act responsibly to eliminate the threat. This is an instance where individuals need to understand that sometimes there is a need to regulate for the benefit of all.”
H. Lee Showalter
Five Forks Fruit, Waynesboro, PA
Good Practices Are Sufficient
“I think it goes without saying that I am against the idea of mandatory pasteurization. Many say that untreated juice could cause harm to the industry if there is an outbreak. Orange juice has had salmonella outbreaks in juice post-1996 and has not seen a loss in its market share. Look at how much spinach has gained back since the most publicized outbreak ever.
The claim that a foodborne illness can wipe out an industry is unjustified. Short-term effects have been the only effects on the industry. Pasteurization is no silver bullet: A ‘marginal’ producer will not be diligent about his pasteurization practices. What kind of problem will this industry have if we have an outbreak in a pasteurized juice? What is the next step? No juice at all.
Safe juice begins with wholesome fruit and diligent good management practices (GMPs). If pasteurization is required, it will have to be managed as it does with the Pasteurized Milk Ordinance. This will cost millions in oversight. It will no doubt cause all of our fees to go up and ultimately the consumer ends up paying more in the end. All of the cider mills [in Michigan] are required to have a license and inspection program. All cider mills in Michigan are treated equally and have to meet the most rigorous set of GMPs in all of the 50 states. It is already impossible to buy untreated juice commercially. The only place that you can get untreated juice is at the farm it is from. Untreated juice also carries a warning statement. All the blame could easily be traced back to one place if a problem were to occur.
Who stands to benefit from mandatory pasteurization? The smaller producers have been a thorn in the side of the large producers. The small cider industry has done everything that federal and state regulators have asked for. However, it is the large producers that call for our heads in the name of safety, only to gain market share (it is already happening in New York).
Mandatory pasteurization runs counter to the idea of a slow food movement or whole food movement. There are people willing to pay for an untreated product. This would also hinder efforts to increase value-added production. This would be a backward step.”
Mike Beck
Uncle John’s Cider Mill, St. Johns, MI
Treatment Success Is Proven
“Numerous foodborne outbreaks due to untreated cider have occurred across the U.S. and worldwide, resulting in fatalities and long-term health problems. The common factor in the outbreaks is that they were all due to untreated apple cider. There has not been a foodborne illness in the U.S. due to treated apple cider. Despite good agricultural and manufacturing practices during harvest and cider production, there is no guarantee of safety without a final treatment of the juice prior to bottling. Currently there are effective thermal and non-thermal treatment options (pasteurization, ultraviolet light, and high-pressure processing) that are FDA approved to eliminate pathogens and therefore ensure the safety of apple cider for all consumers. This is critical, as a low level of contamination of pathogenic E. coli in a cider batch can produce illness in a large number of consumers.
Cider pasteurization and non-thermal treatments do not affect the flavor of treated cider as can happen with excessive thermal pasteurization processes used for shelf-stable apple juice. Both thermal and non-thermal treatments not only guarantee the safety of apple cider but also extend its shelflife. In addition, there are several equipment options in terms of cost and capacity to fulfill the production needs of small to larger cider producers.
The impact of apple cider outbreaks not only affects the local cider producers, but has a negative ripple effect on all cider producers across the U.S., with decreased consumer confidence due to the health risks associated with untreated cider, the widespread media coverage of foodborne outbreaks, and untimely deaths that can result from consumption of contaminated cider. The impact of a cider outbreak extends to the entire apple industry. The recent spinach outbreak is a perfect example of how a single producer can devastate an entire industry.”
Randy W. Worobo and Olga I. Padilla-Zakour
Department of Food Science and Technology
New York State Agricultural Experiment Station, Geneva, NY
Subscribe Today For
